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den 27 maj home again, home again ....26 May return to states 12:30 AM pickup by driver/guide Isa. Samer sent peaches with us – but we left taxi at airport so quickly that we forgot to take them with us. Isa suggested we tell the airport checkpoint (outside) that we say we were coming from Jerusalem, but we did say we were from Bethlehem. We were pulled aside, but only briefly (second time on this trip to airport). The inside clearances were extensive. Passport checks at least twice before getting to gate check, scanning of all baggage once and carry-on an additional time (presumably also checked baggage separately), physical inspection and dusting of gift items. But everybody was polite. The Arabic language Lutheran prayerbook (service book) seemed to surprize the young lady – but there were no problems. Flight to Amsterdam was fine – and we got to Amsterdam just after a big storm. There was just about enough time to get to the second flight for screening. No interviews this time in Amsterdam, but they did insist on my taking belt off even though not metal on it; apparently some time between our trip through Amsterdam going to Palestine and this return it became a requirement that all belts be taken off, regardless. We had good seats on this flight and actually got a bit of sleep. Customs was really quick – not side trip to agriculture department, indeed they didn’t even look at our baggage. Good bus ride to Milwaukee – overheard someone else returning from Israel (altho it sounded that he must really have been in Palestine) recounting his trip to someone he knew returning from trip elsewhere. Drive home not long, although we kept making wrong turns. Home before 5 PM. free day - jerusalem and beit sahour 25 May - free day - Jerusalem and a different shepherds’ field Elias came to take us to the checkpoint at 8 AM – Hanadi came with us. When we got on the bus we met Pr Saliba (the bishop’s chaplain) on his way to work. Got off with him at Jaffa gate. Then followed several persons directions, which finally led us to the western (wailing) wall. Several very excited groups – of both young and old. Many impressive buildings surrounding. The streets much like the streets in other city casbah’s, although I don’t think they call it that. Then returned to Lutheran church headquarters; saw historical picture display. Looked at church – American congregation has own chapel – building dates back long time, but arranged in normal ELCA fashion. Decided against climbing tower – which is slightly taller than Church of Holy Sepulchre, which is almost next door. Went with Saliba to look for seeds at various shops in the suq – without much success. Found ourselves at the Damascus gate for return. The buses are mini-buses, a little bigger than the service taxis, much like the smaller buses in Cairo, but more orderly. They seem to send one off as soon as it’s filled. Saliba had bought felafel and some kind of bread – so we had lunch on the bus. After checkpoint, where we saw the same young man on our way to Bethlehem as earlier to Jerusalem (he has family in california), the taxi drivers bidding for the business were asking exorbitant prices, but Saliba found one for us at the expected 20 shekels. We got off near the Lutheran church, where he found the seeds and a lemon plant to take home. We walked with him – and got a tour of the Eastern Orthodox shepherds’ field. After that, a bit of a walk “home,” but picked up coke at nearby store. Evening meal at Ruth’s Field restaurant with whole family. We walked to and from – although slightly dark. den 24 maj Dead Sea
24 May – Sixth Sunday after Easter – Jericho and Dead Sea In morning attended church at Lutheran Church in Beit Sahour, where I preached in English (although I did attempt Arabic salutation.) Also participating in service was the pastor (of course) and a son of the congregation who serves in a position something like our assistant to the bishop. The United Church of Canada group (from Nazareth) worshipped there as well. The pastor prepares English language bulletins for Sundays when he knows there’ll be someone from the states. {Don’t know what other languages, if any, he does that for.} The Greek Orthodox church across the street starts church earlier in the morning, so we got to hear some of their worship as well. Trip to Jericho with Samer and Elias: Tel es-Sultan (archaeological site pre Joshua times), two competing sycamore trees for Zacchaeus (Roman and Greek), view of the Mount of Temptation, and lunch. Extra trip to Qumran – very nice. Then to public beach – to float in the Dead Sea. [How public the beach is is questionable, although they have removed the checkpoint which has prevented Palestinians from getting there.]
Nablus
23 May – Nablus With Samer and driver Elias to Nablus (the old Shechem.) Met first a student working with the PR department at the local university. Drinks at an old hotel. Most students and faculty from Nablus area. Joined by another student and a visitor from the states. The student is from Palestinian family who had spent some time in Syria. The visitor is working for a second time with an NGO in Palestine. The main market area was mobbed. Many Palestinians who live in Jerusalem and other parts of Israel come to the Nablus market on Sabbath. This is a “privilege” granted a few months ago, after years (since the Intifada began) of being denied accesss; more recently, Palestinians from other parts of Palestine have been allowed to drive their cars into Nablus – they used to have to park at the checkpoint and walk into town. The mobbed market extends into the market area of the Casbah (the old city) – the very modern stores of the new market area are replaced by the old Arab suk. We were told that the market (as well as other things in town) was patterned after the one in Damascus. There are many other parts of the Casbah than just the market. There are many residential neihborhoods. There are signs of the Israeli invasion and destruction; but there are also signs of the British occupation. One of the students remarked about there having been 27 occupations. He feels that, just as the Roman, Ottoman, and other occupations ended, this too will end. We went to turkish baths for coffee, had lunch at restaurant, visited a soap factory, and had the most delicious dessert (kunafa). From a distance we saw Mount Gerizim and Mt Ebal. Our travel was o.k., although we did experience for the first time an Israeli soldier pointing a rifle right at us. Evening was big birthday party for Gail, Erica, Mary, and Hanadi – at large restaurant. Then cake back at the family home.
shepherd's field (RC)
22 May – down day – shepherds’ field Took morning walk over to the dividing street we’d been on before, then back to shepherd’s field – the Roman site. [Couldn’t find the Orthodox site.] Took a few pictures, then the camera quit. Stopped at Ruth’s Field Restaurant (Samer’s in-laws’) for coke – then home to Samer’s. Backed up loads of pictures and things – and worked on sermon. Tuna fish sandwiches grilled in short sub rolls. Showed the girls some of videos – and we/they took more video shots. Second trip to Shepherds’ fields. More crowded – but got remaining shots. Again stopped at ruth’s field for coke and ice cream. More games with girls. Family emergency, involving cousin, had Samer out a bit. Fine dinner.
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